Paul Jones - Ottawa, Canada -
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My
wife and I stayed six nights (five full days) at this famous
establishment. The accommodations were comfortable, the food good and
the guides excellent. The trip highlight, and an all-time great birding
moment, was a Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo at an army ant swarm on the
nearby Pipeline Road. Other gems included Tiny Hawk, Crested Owl, Great
Potoo, Great Jacamar and the Tower’s signature species - Blue Cotinga.
Our total list was 205.
Period: 13.1.2009-17.1.2009
Author(s): Paul Jones
Key sites visited: Canopy Tower - Ant Swarms and Ground-Cuckoos
Panama,
the southernmost country in Central America, is situated on the isthmus
connecting North and South America. Curving approximately 700
kilometres east to west, it covers 75,000 km² and has a population of
3.3 million. The country’s bird list is 972.
The Canopy Tower
is a privately-owned eco-lodge in Soberania National Park, a 221 km²
area of tropical forest, scrub and wetlands protecting the Panama
Canal’s watershed. The Tower is a 45-minute drive from Panama City and
is set atop a local highpoint, Semaphore Hill, in a renovated former
U.S. military radar installation.
The
circular building’s ground floor houses natural history displays, a
gift shop and the reception desk. Guest and guide rooms are on the next
two levels. The third floor is the dining and lounge area and above
that, through a large hatch, is the observation deck. The overall
impression is not one of conventional luxury but rather of an upscale
industrial loft; open stair cases, exposed structural steel and huge
windows, softened by beautiful teak doors and railings. There is no
elevator so there are stairs (neither steep nor narrow) to climb.
We
booked the Blue Cotinga Suite, one of the larger rooms and the only one
with a balcony. The suite, like the others we investigated, was
modestly furnished but clean, well lit and comfortable with a private
washroom and hot shower. The water was drinkable from the tap, but of
limited supply. Conservation measures, such as short showers, were
urged. The rooms have no sound insulation, so it is best to speak in
whispers. Ear plugs would be a good idea for light
sleepers. Electricity was on 24 hours, with Canadian/U.S. outlets. The
Tower is not air conditioned; ceiling fans kept us very comfortable.
Breakfast
was at 7:30 (occasionally bumped to 6:00 to accommodate early trips).
Scrambled eggs, bacon, fruit and cereal were standard morning fare. The
featured lunches (served at 12:30) were pasta salad, pizza, salmon
casserole and rice and chicken pilaf. Dinner was at 7:00, preceded by
an open wine bar at 6:00. One evening we had a delicious chicken
curry. Other mains included sea bass, roast beef and a mixed-grill
barbeque on the open-air lower deck. Side dishes at both lunch and
dinner included plantains prepared in various ways, savoury rice and
beans, fresh bread and excellent green salads.
The
Tower has a great website containing a wealth of detailed information,
including bird and mammal checklists as well as a log of recent
sightings: http://canopytower.com/
Getting There
- We made our reservations directly with the Tower, who responded to
emails immediately and worked out our room booking without a
hitch. Less smoothly, our Montreal-Miami-Panama City flight on American
Airlines was abruptly cancelled just hours before departure. American
re-booked us on Delta and after an eight hour wait we flew
Montreal-Atlanta-Panama. While en route we emailed the new itinerary to
the Tower who responded quickly and rescheduled our airport
transfer. After quickly clearing customs we were picked up by our
driver outside the airport’s main doors and arrived at the Tower at
eleven p.m.
Health and Safety
- The canal area has no particular disease issues but an appointment
with a travel medicine clinic is always recommended before a visit to
the tropics. Mosquitoes were few and far between but chiggers, the
larval stage of a mite, can be a problem in the area. Found in grass
and shrub land, they attach themselves to passing mammals to feed on
skin cell fluid and then quickly drop back into the underbrush, leaving
small but terribly itchy blisters. Our chigger-avoidance strategy was
to tuck shirts into pants and pant cuffs into socks. We pretreated our
clothing with a permethian spray and dusted our socks with the sulfur
powder cached at the Tower’s entrance. Our precautions paid off, with
just 3-4 bites each.
Weather
- Panama’s dry season runs mid-December to late April. We had a mix of
sun and cloud during our stay, with just a few drops of rain. Although
we never got wet, raincoats and rain pants are good to have; the
vehicles used to transport Tower guests to nearby birding locations are
open-topped. The temperature was surprisingly moderate. During the day
it was never stifling hot or humid and in the evening atop the
observation deck it was almost cool in the breeze.
Literature
- A “Guide to the Birds of Panama” by Ridgely and Gwynne is the
standard reference. Garrigues and Dean’s new “Birds of Costa Rica” is a
good companion volume. “A Bird-Finding Guide to Panama” by Angehr,
Engleman and Engleman is a great book, providing independent travelers
with clear and detailed instructions on most of the sites visited out
of the Tower. A “Field Guide to the Mammals of Central America and
Southeast Mexico” by Fiona Reid is the resource for identifying the
area’s numerous animals. A well-stocked library beside the lounge
area has all these books.
We
loaded our iPod with relevant tracks from a couple of Costa Rica bird
song CDs and from the website Xeno Canto. The site has minimal
instructions but by clicking on “map search” and zeroing in on the
Canal Zone we were able to download lots of useful material from the
little red balloons, including songs recorded right at the Tower (for
Mac users, when you locate a relevant track do a “control click” on the
file, hit “download linked file as” and save it to your desktop). If
you are using an iPod, tracks should be renamed on the desktop or in a
program such as “Garage Band”. Tracks renamed in iTunes tend to
disappear.
Guides and Guests
- The Tower employs at least four birding guides. The lead man is
Carlos Bethancourt. He was absent during our visit so José Perez,
Alexis Sanchez or José Soto ably assisted us on local expeditions. They
knew the calls, songs and habits of the local birds, could whistle up
many species and also had iPods loaded with the necessary tracks. Their
ability to find birds, get guests on to them in an instant and line
them up immediately in the scope was remarkable. They also had a solid
background in the area’s broader natural history.
The
guests at the Tower during our stay were for the most part retired
couples, at least one of whom had an interest in bird watching. Our
enthusiasm level was a little higher. After the first day I adjusted my
energy level downwards and had a wonderful time. The guides did an
excellent job of balancing the needs of all, patiently re-iterating
tips for identifying Turkey Vultures as well as discussing the finer
points of Tyrannulet plumage and vocalization. At the end of the day
the guests would meet in the dining/lounge area and have a drink, eat,
tell stories and laugh - a great time.
In
addition to the birding opportunities right at the tower, two off-site
tours are offered each day. The first departs in the morning between
6:30 and 8:30 depending on the destination, the other leaves at 3:00 in
the afternoon. One of the tour sites is reached on foot from the Tower,
the others are accessed by a 15-20 minute drive on one of two
“rainforestmobiles”; small trucks with padded, open air, back-to-back
benches running lengthwise down the bed.
Birding Locations
One - The Observation Deck
(forest canopy) - The open roof of the tower provides a panoramic
360-degree view of the surrounding countryside. Much of the vista is
beautiful tropical forest, but patches of agricultural land are also
visible, as is a massive bare earth scar along a portion of the canal
that is being dredged. Ocean going ships traversing the isthmus are
often in sight and the high rises of Panama City can be seen in the
distance.
Huge
numbers of raptors migrate past the tower in March and
September. During our January stay we had a decent selection of
resident species. Black Vulture and Turkey Vulture were always in sight
and we scoped one King Vulture in the distance. Swallow-tailed Kite,
Yellow-headed Caracara, White Hawk, Short-tailed Hawk and Black
Hawk-Eagle made close flybys. Other birders had good looks from the
deck at Zone-tailed Hawk and Bat Falcon. At dawn and dusk a Collared
Forest-Falcon could be heard calling from the forest.
Short-tailed
Swift, Band-rumped Swift and Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift were usually
zipping around. A beautiful Purple-crowned Fairy visited the flowers in
the canopy just off the deck and in the morning and evening we had
goods looks at Mealy Parrot and Keel-billed Toucan. The amiable leader
of a Field Guides tour staying at the Tower, Jay VanderGaast, got his
group on to a male Blue Cotinga perched atop one of the surrounding
trees.
Two - Hummingbird Feeders
- In the low flowering trees at the base of the tower there are several
hummingbird feeders. They were very active, especially in the morning
and evening, but diversity was low. The four regularly occurring
species were Long-billed Hermit, White-necked Jacobin, Violet-bellied
Hummingbird and Blue-chested Hummingbird. The Tower does not operate a
fruit feeder for tanagers; keeping one stocked proved impossible with
the large numbers of kinkajous, coatis and monkeys in the area.
The
“footprint” of the Canopy Tower (including the tower itself, parking
spaces and a ground level deck) is the size of two or three tennis
courts and enclosed within a high chain-link fence. The fence is kept
locked, but guests can pop the latch and wander out as they please
during the day. Our desire to do a solo night walk was politely
discouraged. It was explained that Park rangers patrolled the area and
would have questions for people about after dark.
Three - Semaphore Hill Road
(mature forest) - The introductory off-site trip is a kilometre and a
half hike down the winding, paved access road to the Tower. Guide José
Perez led us on a slow stroll to the main highway, pointing out various
forest residents. Immediately outside the gate three Geoffroy´s
Tamarins crossed the road above us, followed by a troop of Mantled
Howler Monkeys. On the way down we had Black-breasted Puffbird,
Fasciated Antshrike, Western Slaty Antshrike, Paltry Tyrannulet and a
variety of other forest birds. We also saw the first of many
Brown-throated Three-toed Sloths. At the bottom of the hill we skirted
right a few metres along the main road for a look at a staked-out,
day-roosting Great Potoo. At 11:30 a.m. we were met by one of the
rainforestmobiles and driven back up to the Tower for lunch. The walk
down Semaphore Hill takes 15 minutes with no stops. The hike back up
is, apparently, a hard 25 minutes.
Four - Plantation Road
(mature forest) - At the base of the Semaphore Hill Road, just before
the main road, is the entrance to the Plantation Road, a trail cutting
seven kilometres through tropical forest. Although the Tower leads
guided walks here we elected to explore it ourselves. At 6:30 a.m.
after an early breakfast we left the Tower and quickly walked to the
trailhead. We got as far as the 5K marker, picking up the usual
trailside birds - Dot-winged Antwren, Chequer-throated Antwren and
Long-billed Hermit. We flushed several Gray-chested Doves and a Great
Tinamou. White-whiskered Puffbird and Song Wren, while not rare, were
neat birds to pick up on our own. At 11:30 a.m. we began the steep
ascent back up Semaphore Hill. Our return did not take long; we hitched
a ride with the first Canopy Tower vehicle to come along.
Five - The Ammo Dump Ponds
(degraded wetland, scrub, forest edge) are right beside the canal and
are reached by proceeding down Semaphore Hill Road, turning right on
the main road, crossing the Chagres River and driving past the
community of Gamboa. There was virtually no open water present during
our visit but the location was still very birdy. Marsh dwellers
included Rufescent Tiger Heron, Snail Kite and Wattled Jacana. The
trees held Yellow-headed Caracara, a female Blue Cotinga, Panama
Flycatcher and Social and Rusty-margined Flycatcher (close comparative
looks). There were also lots of Northern and Southern Rough-winged
Swallows buzzing about as well as Gray-breasted Martins.
Six - The Summit Gardens
(open botanical garden and zoo) are located on the main road just a
short distance left from the base of Semaphore Hill. We checked out the
Harpy Eagle enclosure to get a sense of this great bird and then
wandered about the grounds keeping our eyes on fruiting trees,
flowering shrubs and various open animal pens. Just opposite the Harpy
cage a large tree was visited by a succession of frugivores including
Orange-chinned Parakeet, Masked Tityra and Plain-Coloured and Palm
Tanager. A number of species came to drink and bathe at a small pond at
the White-tailed Deer enclosure including Buff-bellied Wren as well as
wintering Philadelphia Vireo, Yellow Warbler, Tennessee Warbler,
Bay-breasted Warbler and Summer Tanager. Several Giant Cowbirds and one
Shiny Cowbird fed on spilled grain on the floor of the deer’s feeding
stall.
Seven - The Summit Ponds
are two mid-sized reservoirs set amidst dry, low forest and open
scrub. The area, just opposite the Summit Gardens, is fantastically
birdy; something of interest was always in view. Highlights included
Gray-headed Chachalaca, Boat-billed Heron, Bat Falcon, Blue-crowned
Motmot, Ringed Kingfisher, Green Kingfisher and a pair of staked out,
day-roosting Spectacled Owls. A Rosy Thrush-Tanager singing at our feet
from the scrub could not be coaxed into view.
Eight - Gamboa Rainforest Resort
(lawns, gardens, wetland, scrub, forest edge) - This attractive
establishment is located beside the community of Gamboa and can be
reached by taking an immediate left after crossing the Chagres River.
The Canopy Tower has an arrangement with the resort to let guests visit
the grounds. We dropped by twice, both times in the afternoon. Parking
by the orchid nursery, we walked the kilometre or so road to the aerial
tram’s parking lot. The lawns, gardens, wetlands and patches of
secondary forest, were, like the Summit Ponds, filled with
birds. Sightings included an American Pygmy Kingfisher on a dead branch
overhanging the pond near the aerial tram parking lot, Broad-billed
Motmot on a telephone wire along the road and two Yellow-bellied
Seedeaters in with a large flock of Variable Seedeater roosting in a
wetland/cane tangle. A scope scan of the far bank of the Chagres River
revealed a number of wetland birds including Pied-billed Grebe and
Black-bellied Whistling Duck. The mammal highlight was a troop of
White-face Capuchin Monkeys feeding on nectar from a flowering Balsa
Tree near the kingfisher pond.
Eight - Night Drive
- At eight in the evening of January 14 we climbed into the open truck
and headed down Semaphore Hill Road, searching for nocturnal birds and
mammals. The trip lasted almost two hours and was a great
success. Guide Alexis Sanchez stood at the front of the moving vehicle,
rapidly sweeping the overhanging trees with a powerful spotlight,
looking for the reflective eye shine of night creatures. We had barely
left the Tower when we had our first sighting, a Two-toed Sloth. Just a
little further down Alexis signaled the driver to stop again, this time
for a Central American Woolly Opossum feeding in a flowering Balsa
Tree. Another flowering Balsa held a Kinkajou. At the base of the hill
we turned right on the main road and almost immediately Alexis had the
driver back up. “Get ready” he said and when the vehicle stopped he lit
up a Crested Owl perched on a long, thick horizontal branch above the
parking lot to the El Charco trail. Much excitement! A Common Opossum
was our next sighting, followed by a stop at another flowering tree
where both an Olingo and a Kinkajou were feeding, allowing for a great
side-by-side comparison of these similar species.
Sightings
on the Night Drive: Crested Owl (1), Common Opossum (3), Central
American Woolly Opossum (1), Hoffmann’s Two-toed Slot (5, including a
mother and baby), Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth (1), Kinkajou (5) and
Olingo (1).
Nine - The Pipeline Road
(mature forest) runs inland just past the Ammo Dump Ponds deep into
Soberania National Park. Our three visits to this renowned site
provided the best birding of the trip, although it did not yield as
many species as the open habitat along the canal. To enter the area,
one must pass two gates. At the first gate/guard house an area of
secondary forest commences. In a couple of kilometres or so a second
gate (unstaffed) and small bridge marks the start of the Pipeline Road
proper, and more mature forest. The road runs 17 kilometres from the
second gate, but apparently only the first five are open to public
access. The Canopy Tower has special permission to bring its vehicles
past the second gate. A great way to independently explore it would be
by bike.
Although
the road provides excellent birding, the area cannot be characterized
as wilderness. On two of our three visits we met up with several other
birding parties with whom we happily shared sightings. On our second
trip we encountered large numbers of sandal and shorts clad
“researchers” fiddling with various equipment and inexpertly joy-riding
up and down the road in SUVs.
First Visit
- Departing from the lodge at 6:30 a.m., we drove quickly to the first
gate, proceeded past it and then parked just before the second gate. At
the first bridge there was a Bay Wren. We continued slowly down the
road, getting a feel for the common birds of the forest. Guide José
Perez brought our attention to the call of a Great Jacamar. Several
minute of imitative whistling by José brought the bird closer and
closer until it finally revealed itself for stunning, close-by, sun-lit
scope views.
Farther
down the road at the location of a seedling plantation in the ditch
(marked by hundreds of tiny flags) a mid-sized dark bird fluttered low
across in front of us. A minute or so later another bird fluttered by
just above the ground; a Plain-brown Woodcreeper. This behaviour seemed
out of place. “There is an army ant swarm here” José quietly said.
Army
ants do not build permanent nests but form “bivouacs” each night. In
the morning the queen, eggs, larvae and rear guard remain behind and a
hunting party heads out in search of small insects and spiders to
catch, dismember and send back to the main mass. As the hunting party
moves through the forest, small prey items and larger frogs, lizards
and scorpions flee in panic from the the group. Birds gather to feed on
these refugees; some do so opportunistically, for others (the “ant
obligates”) this is a main source of food. Woodcreepers and a few of
the aptly named Antbirds are usually in attendance at swarms along the
Pipeline Road. The most coveted obligate is the rare and charismatic
Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo, a crested, crow-sized, long-tailed forest
ghost. Because this species is so seldom encountered it was barely on
my wish list of things to see.
Our
ant swarm was a relatively small one, perhaps 2m². Attending it was one
Rufous Motmot, two Plain-brown Woodcreepers, two Northern
Barred-Woodcreepers, three Spotted Antbirds, four Bicolored Antbirds,
five Ocellated Antbirds, one Kentucky Warbler and three Gray-headed
Tanagers. There were two Black-striped Woodcreepers in the general
vicinity, but it was uncertain if they were with the ants. In any
event, all the birds were very quiet, sitting low above the swarm or on
the ground in front of it; occasionally dashing out to catch an item of
food. Most birds at ant swarms are oblivious to people so everyone had
fantastic looks at the action from just two to three metres away. After
most of the birding group had their fill of the excitement they moved
on down the Pipeline Road. I remained behind, walking slowly backwards
from the leading edge of the hunting party, observing and photographing
the birds for 45 minutes or so. Finding and watching an ant swarm and
its attendants is one of the great natural history/birding experiences.
When
the others returned we all headed slowly back to the vehicle and began
the drive out. Halfway between the first and second gate a group of
birders by the roadside urgently signaled us to stop. We hopped out and
it was apparent that there was another ant swarm right by the road. One
of the birders quietly hissed “Ground-Cuckoo”, pulled me close, pointed
in to the dim forest and said “It’s moving that way fast”. I did not
get on the bird. We waited an hour by the slowly moving swarm but the
cuckoo never came back.
Second Visit
- We proceeded past both the first and second gates and parked about
two and a half kilometres down the road. From there we set of on foot,
quickly finding a Black-tailed Trogon. Guide José Soto alerted us to
the song of a Scaly-breasted Antpitta and then whistled it in. At one
of the bridges along the road he spotted a Tiny Hawk in a nearby tree
and lined it up in the scope for us. We did not encounter an ant swarm
but did come across several mixed species flocks, one that held a few
ant obligates including Spotted Antbird, Bicolored Antbird and
Gray-headed Tanager. Other interesting sightings included a perched
Semiplumbeous Hawk, Spot-crowned Antvireo, a beautiful male Blue
Cotinga radiant in the sun and a black and green Poison Arrow Frog.
Third Visit
- On our last day in Panama we left the Tower early and drove to the
Pipeline Road. We parked just a little past the first gate and walked
slowly through the secondary forest, leisurely studying birds by the
roadside. In the morning sun we had fantastic looks at Black-throated
Trogon, Blue Cotinga, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Golden-collared
Manakin and Yellow-backed Oriole. After 45 minutes or so guide José
Perez returned to the truck and brought it around to pick us up. We had
barely begun to drive when José slowly pulled over and indicated that
he could hear an ant swarm nearby. In contrast to our first encounter
with army ants at which the birds were essentially silent, this was a
bigger swarm with more birds; birds that were sharply vocalizing to one
another as they competed over food. The commotion was 20 metres in from
the road and José carefully lead us through the underbrush to get a
view of the action. As we neared the epicenter of activity I began to
intently sort through the now familiar obligates: Plain-brown and
Northern Barred-Woodcreeper, Spotted, Bicoloured and Ocellated Antbird
and Gray-headed Tanager. After a few minutes of staring at the action,
José whispered “there is a large bird on the ground, a Ground-Cuckoo”.
I followed the direction of his head nod and instantly, with no
agonizing wait, a Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo was visible through a
small clear point in the undergrowth.
We
watched the bird for twenty minutes or so. Most of the time it stood
motionless on or near the leading edge of the swarm, making the
occasional sudden dash to catch something fleeing the ants. José
indicated that one was very fortunate just to find an ant swarm and
that to see a Ground-Cuckoo was a many times rarer occurrence. We were
very happy.
Closing Thoughts
- Special thanks to the Canopy Tower staff including guides José Perez,
Alexis Sanchez and José Soto for their bird-finding skill and excellent
company. Thanks also to Jay VanderGaast of Field Guides who generously
shared his knowledge of the area and to Raul Arias de Para, the
visionary behind the Canopy Tower and its sister destination, the
Canopy Lodge. Panama is a country we will visit again.
Annotated Bird List
- Panama - The Canopy Tower and associated half-day trips, January
13-17, 2009 (Common Name - Scientific Name - Status per Canopy Tower
checklist - Our sightings)
1.
Great Tinamou - Tinamus major - Common - Haunting call heard daily
around the tower, one seen along Semaphore Hill Road from the truck,
one flushed from the Plantation Road
2.
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck - Dendrocygna autumnalis - Common - Two in
the wetlands behind the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
3. Blue-winged Teal - Anas discors - Winterer - Four in the wetlands behind the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
4. Gray-headed Chachalaca - Ortalis cinereiceps - Common - Two at Summit Ponds
5. Pied-billed Grebe - Podilymbus podiceps - Common - Three in the wetlands behind the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
6. Brown Pelican - Pelecanus occidentalis - Common - Two along the Canal near the Ammo Dump Ponds
7. Neotropic Cormorant - Phalacrocorax brasilianus - Common - One each at Ammo Dump and Summit Ponds
8. Anhinga - Anhinga anhinga - Common - One at Summit Ponds
9. Magnificent Frigatebird - Fregata magnificens - Common - Regular sightings along the Canal
10.
Rufescent Tiger Heron - Tigrisoma lineatum - Uncommon - Three at the
Ammo Dump Ponds including a young bird on a nest, one in a wetland
behind the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
11. Great Egret - Ardea alba - Common - One, Ammo Dump Ponds
12. Little Blue Heron - Egretta caerulea - Common - Four in the wetlands behind the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
13. Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis - Common - One, Summit Ponds
14. Green Heron - Butorides virescens - Common - One each at Ammo Dump and Summit Ponds
15. Boat-billed Heron - Cochlearius cochlearius - Uncommon - Two at Summit Ponds including an adult on a nest
16. Black Vulture - Coragyps atratus - Common - Many sightings daily
17. Turkey Vulture - Cathartes aura - Common - Many sightings daily
18. King Vulture - Sarcoramphus papa - Uncommon - One scoped in the distance from the observation deck, early afternoon
19. Osprey - Pandion haliaetus - Common - One along the canal
20. Swallow-tailed Kite - Elanoides forficatus - Uncommon - One scoped from the observation deck, early afternoon
21. Snail Kite - Rostrhamus sociabilis - Common - One, Ammo Dump Ponds
22. Tiny Hawk - Accipiter superciliosus - Rare - A pair at a nest site along the Pipeline Road
23.
Semiplumbeous Hawk - Leucopternis semiplumbea - Uncommon - One each
along the Semaphore Hill and Pipeline Roads, perched mid-canopy early
morning
24.
White Hawk - Leucopternis albicollis - Uncommon - Several sightings
from the observation deck, one along Semaphore Hill Road
25. Roadside Hawk - Buteo magnirostris - Common - One along the main road
26. Broad-winged Hawk - Buteo platypterus - Winterer - One along the main road
27. Short-tailed Hawk - Buteo brachyurus - Common - Several sightings from the observation deck
28. Black Hawk-Eagle - Spizaetus tyrannus - Common - One from the observation deck
29.
Collared Forest-Falcon - Micrastur semitorquatus - Uncommon - Loud
“Gow!” call heard early morning from the observation deck, also along
Pipeline Road
30.
Yellow-headed Caracara - Milvago chimachima - Common - Sighted from the
observation deck, also at Summit Gardens, Ammo Dump Ponds
31. Bat Falcon - Falco rufigularis - Uncommon - One at Summit Ponds
32.
White-throated Crake - Laterallus albigularis - Common - Heard at Ammo
Dump Ponds, seen and heard at back of Gamboa Resort
33. Common Moorhen - Gallinula chloropus - Common - Seven in the wetlands behind the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
34. American Coot - Fulica americana - Uncommon - Four in the wetlands behind the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
35. Limpkin - Aramus guarauna - Rare - One heard near base of Pipeline Road
36. Southern Lapwing - Vanellus chilensis - Common - Three in the mown fields behind the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
37.
Wattled Jacana - Jacana jacana - Common - Sightings at the Ammo Dump
Ponds and the wetlands behind the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
38. Pale-vented Pigeon - Columba cayennensis - Uncommon - Sightings at the Gamboa Resort, Summit Ponds
39. Scaled Pigeon - Columba speciosa - Abundant - Two sightings, Ammo Dump Ponds and Gamboa Rainforest Resort
40. Short-billed Pigeon - Columba nigrirostris - Uncommon - Regularly heard along Pipeline Road, one sighting there
41. Ruddy Ground-Dove - Columbina talpacoti - Abundant - Several at Gamboa Rainforest Resort
42. White-tipped Dove - Leptotila verreauxi - Common - Regular sightings in open areas (Summit Ponds, Summit Gardens, etc.)
43. Gray-chested Dove - Leptotila cassinii - Common - Three along the Plantation Road
44. Orange-chinned Parakeet - Brotogeris jugularis - Abundant - Many sightings, mostly in semi-open areas
45.
Blue-headed Parrot - Pionus menstruus - Common - Regular sightings,
mostly of flying birds zipping high overhead, identified by scratchier
calls than the Amazonas
46. Red-lored Parrot - Amazona autumnalis - Common - Regular sightings, mostly of flying birds
47.
Mealy Amazon - Amazona farinosa - Common - Regular sightings, mostly of
flying birds but perched birds were also scoped from the observation
deck
48.
Yellow-crowned Parrot - Amazona ochrocephala - Uncommon - A single
sighting in unusual circumstances; as we were leaving the Summit
Gardens a cacophony erupted from the parrot cage and we looked up to
see an un-banded Yellow-crowned Parrot fly in, perch atop the enclosure
and feed the only Yellow-crowned Parrot within the cage - We later saw
the same parrot perched in a tree nearby - perhaps a wild bird
49. Squirrel Cuckoo - Piaya cayana - Common - One each at Semaphore Hill Road, Ammo Dump Ponds and Gamboa Rainforest Resort
50.
Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo - Neomorphus geoffroyi - Very Rare - We
just missed seeing one along the Pipeline Road between the first and
second gate. Two days later we connected with an ant swarm in the same
area and guide Jose Perez got us on to the bird, probably the same one
at the same swarm we had earlier missed - To see this bird I would
recommend visiting the Pipeline Road as many times as possible, staying
alert for ant swarms, sticking close to the guide and keeping your
fingers crossed
51.
Greater Ani - Crotophaga major - Common - A pair seen at Ammo Dump
Ponds, pairs also seen attending ant swarms at the base of the Pipeline
Road
52.
Crested Owl - Lophostrix cristata - Rare - One on the night drive,
spotted and spot-lighted by guide Alexis Sanchez - The bird was perched
on a thick horizontal branch above the parking lot to the El Charco
trail, just a shore distance from the base of the Semaphore Hill Road
53.
Spectacled Owl - Pulsatrix perspicillata - Uncommon - One sighting, a
day-roosting, staked-out pair near the Summit Ponds
54. Great Potoo - Nyctibius grandis - Uncommon - One, a day-roosting, staked-out bird at the base of the Semaphore Hill Road
55.
Short-tailed Swift - Chaetura brachyuran - Common - Regular sightings -
The observation deck was a good place to study swifts
56. Band-rumped Swift - Chaetura spinicauda - Common - Regular sightings
57.
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift - Panyptila cayennensis - Common - Regular
sightings, though fewer seen than the above two swifts
58.
Long-billed Hermit - Phaethornis longirostris - Common - Regular
sightings in forested areas, including the Tower hummingbird feeders
59. Stripe-throated Hermit - Phaethornis striigularis - Common - One, low in the shrubbery along Semaphore Hill Road
60. White-necked Jacobin - Florisuga mellivora - Common - Regular sightings
61.
Black-throated Mango - Anthracothorax nigricollis - Uncommon - Four,
all in low forest at edge of wetlands, Summit Ponds, Gamboa Rainforest
Resort
62. Violet-bellied Hummingbird - Damophila julie - Common - Regular sightings around the Tower hummingbird feeders
63. Blue-chested Hummingbird - Amazilia amabilis - Common - Regular sightings
64. Snowy-bellied Hummingbird - Amazilia edward - Common - One each at Summit Ponds and Summit Gardens
65.
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird - Amazilia tzacatl - Common - Several
sightings in semi-open habitat, for example Summit Gardens
66.
Purple-crowned Fairy - Heliothryx barroti - Uncommon - Two, one in the
tree tops off the observation deck, one mid-canopy at the base of the
Pipeline Road
67. White-tailed Trogon - Trogon viridis - Common - Several sightings
68. Violaceous Trogon - Trogon violaceus - Common - Several sightings
69. Black-throated Trogon - Trogon rufus - Common - Two, a cooperative pair at base of Pipeline Road
70. Black-tailed Trogon - Trogon melanurus - Uncommon - One, Pipeline Road
71. Slaty-tailed Trogon - Trogon massena - Common - Regular sightings, the call is frequently heard from the forest
72.
Blue-crowned Motmot - Momotus momota - Common - One, Summit Ponds -
This bird apparently frequents lower, scrubbier habitat that the next
two Motmots
73.
Rufous Motmot - Baryphthengus martii - Common - Four in forest habitat,
including one at an ant swarm on the Pipeline Road, slightly shyer than
the next species
74. Broad-billed Motmot - Electron platyrhynchum - Common - Five in forest habitat, approachable
75. Ringed Kingfisher - Ceryle torquata - Common - One each at Summit and Ammo Dump Ponds
76. Green Kingfisher - Chloroceryle americana - Common - One at Summit Ponds
77.
American Pygmy Kingfisher - Chloroceryle aenea - Uncommon - One, at a
pond just before the aerial-tram parking lot behind the Gamboa Resort -
A great little bird
78. Black-breasted Puffbird - Notharchus pectoralis - Uncommon - One along the Semaphore Road, one along the Pipeline Road
79. White-whiskered Puffbird - Malacoptila panamensis - Uncommon - Three on the Pipeline Road, one along the Plantation Road
80. Great Jacamar - Jacamerops aurea - Rare - One beautiful bird along the Pipeline Road, whistled in by guide José Perez
81. Collared Aracari - Pteroglossus torquatus - Common - Regular sightings
82. Keel-billed Toucan - Ramphastos sulfuratus - Common - Regular sightings, including from the observation deck
83.
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan - Ramphastos swainsonii - Common - Heard
twice, Pipeline Road and near the tram parking lot, never seen - Took
this bird for granted, should have looked harder for it
84. Black-cheeked Woodpecker - Melanerpes pucherani - Common - One, Gamboa Resort
85. Red-crowned Woodpecker - Melanerpes rubricapillus - Abundant - Regular sightings
86. Cinnamon Woodpecker - Celeus loricatus - Common - Five, Pipeline Road
87. Lineated Woodpecker - Dryocopus lineatus - Common - Three, Pipeline Road
88. Crimson-crested Woodpecker - Campephilus melanoleucos - Common - Four, Pipeline Road and Semaphore Hill Road
89. Plain Xenops - Xenops minutus - Common - Regular sightings
90. Plain-brown Woodcreeper - Dendrocincla fuliginosa - Common - Regular sightings, including at ant swarms
91. Northern Barred-Woodcreeper - Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae - Uncommon - Regular sightings, including at ant swarms
92. Buff-throated (Cocoa) Woodcreeper - Xiphorhynchus guttatus - Abundant - Regular sightings
93.
Black-striped Woodcreeper - Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus - Uncommon - Two
sightings, both along the Pipeline Road - A particularly attractive
Woodcreeper
94. Streak-headed Woodcreeper - Lepidocolaptes souleyetii - Uncommon - One, Summit Gardens
95. Fasciated Antshrike - Cymbilaimus lineatus - Common - Regular sightings
96. Great Antshrike - Taraba major - Uncommon - A pair by the pond near the aerial-tram at the Gamboa Rainforest resort
97. Barred Antshrike - Thamnophilus doliatus - Common - A pair at the Gamboa Rainforest resort
98. Western Slaty-Antshrike - Thamnophilus atrinucha - Common - Regular sightings
99. Spot-crowned Antvireo - Dysithamnus puncticeps - Uncommon - One sighting of two birds near K5 of Pipeline Road
100. Checker-throated Antwren - Myrmotherula fulviventris - Common - Regular sightings in trail-side scrub
101.
White-flanked Antwren - Myrmotherula axillaris - Common - Regular
sightings in trail-side scrub though not as frequently seen as
Checker-throated or Dot-winged - Has a very short tail
102.
Dot-winged Antwren - Microrhopias quixensis - Common - Regular
sightings, acts a bit like a chickadee, small flocks in the trail-side
scrub
103. Dusky Antbird - Cercomacra tyrannina - Common - One each at Semaphore Hill Road, Summit Ponds and Pipeline Road
104. Chestnut-backed Antbird - Myrmeciza exsul - Common - One at base of Semaphore Hill Road, two on the Pipeline Road
105.
Spotted Antbird - Hylophylax naevioides - Common - Present and
approachable at all three Pipeline ant swarms we encountered, a very
attractive bird - Also, occasional sightings independent of ants
106. Bicolored Antbird - Gymnopithys leucaspis - Uncommon - Same status as Spotted Antbird
107.
Ocellated Antbird - Phaenostictus mcleannani - Uncommon - Five at first
ant swarm, two at third swarm - Also, one independent of ants along the
Pipline Road
108. Black-faced Antthrush - Formicarius analis - Common - One heard, Pipeline Road
109.
Streak-chested Antpitta - Hylopezus perspicillatus - Uncommon -
Pipeline Road, two heard, one whistled in by guide José Soto - My first
Antpitta
110. Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet - Camptostoma obsoletum - Uncommon - One each at Summit Ponds, Gamboa Resort
111.
Forest Elaenia - Myiopagis gaimardii - Uncommon - One, Summit Ponds -
Generally did poorly on flycatchers, this is not a family that the
guides could devote a lot of time to on our day trips
112. Yellow-bellied Elaenia - Elaenia flavogaster - Uncommon - One, Summit Ponds
113. Ochre-bellied Flycatcher - Mionectes oleaginea - Uncommon - Two, Pipeline Road
114. Paltry Tyrannulet - Zimmerius vilissimus - Uncommon - One, Semaphore Hill Road
115. Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant - Myiornis atricapillus - Common - Two sightings, both on Pipeline Road
116. Southern Bentbill - Oncostoma olivaceum - Rare - Frequently heard and seen along the Pipeline Road
117. Common Tody-Flycatcher - Todirostrum cinereum - Uncommon - Two sightings, Summit Ponds and Gamboa Rainforest Resort
118.
Brownish Flycatcher (Twistwing) - Cnipodectes subbrunneus - Uncommon -
One heard at second gate to Pipeline Road, we had to move along
119. Olivaceous Flatbill - Rhynchocyclus olivaceus - Uncommon - Five, Pipeline Road
120. Yellow-margined Flycatcher - Tolmomyias assimilis - Uncommon - Two, Pipeline Road
121. Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher - Terenotriccus erythrurus - Uncommon - Three, Pipeline Road
122. Bright-rumped Attila - Attila spadiceus - Common - One, Pipeline Road, building a nest
123. Rufous Mourner - Rhytipterna holerythra - Uncommon - Two, Pipeline Road
124. Dusky-capped Flycatcher - Myiarchus tuberculifer - Common - Heard regularly
125.
Panama Flycatcher - Myiarchus panamensis - Common - Three, Ammo Dump
Ponds and Summit Gardens - Low, approachable and, based on absence of
rufous tones, easy to identify
126. Great Crested Flycatcher - Myiarchus crinitus - Winterer - Heard regularly
127.
Lesser Kiskadee - Pitangus lector - Common - Three, Summit Ponds and
Gamboa Rainforest Resort, associating with low brush near water - Quite
distinctive, appeared to me to be more “pointy” than rounder/softer
Social/Rusty-margined Flycatcher
128. Great Kiskadee - Pitangus sulphuratus - Common - Regular sightings
129. Boat-billed Flycatcher - Megarynchus pitangua - Common - Two, Gamboa Resort and Summit Ponds
130.
Rusty-margined Flycatcher - Myiozetetes cayanensis - Common - Regular
sightings, very similar to Social Flycatcher but sharply different
vocalizations, subtle plumage distinctions and the assistance of Tower
guides are aids to identification
131. Social Flycatcher - Myiozetetes similis - Abundant - Regular sightings, see above
132. Streaked Flycatcher - Myiodynastes maculatus - Common - Three, Ammo Dump Ponds, Summit Gardens and Pipeline Road
133. Tropical Kingbird - Tyrannus melancholicus - Abundant - Regular sightings
134. Fork-tailed Flycatcher - Tyrannus savana - Common - One, along the main road west from the base of Semaphore Hill
135.
Cinnamon Becard - Pachyramphus cinnamomeus - Uncommon - Four, Gamboa
Rainforest Resort right along the road near the aerial-tram parking lot
136. White-winged Becard - Pachyramphus polychopterus - Uncommon - One, at the Pygmy Kingfisher pond, Gamboa Rainforest Resort
137. Masked Tityra - Tityra semifasciata - Common - Five sightings, Summit Gardens and Summit Ponds
138.
Blue Cotinga - Cotinga nattererii - Uncommon - Three sightings, a
distant treetop female at the Ammo Dump Ponds, a close front-lit male
on the deep Pipeline Road, a female feeding lowish in a fruiting tree
on the close Pipeline Road
139. Purple-throated Fruitcrow - Querula purpurata - Common - Daily sightings including Plantation Road and Pipeline Road
140. Golden-collared Manakin - Manacus vitellinus - Common - One male, base of Pipeline Road
141. Blue-crowned Manakin - Pipra coronata - Common - Four sightings, all green females
142. Red-capped Manakin - Pipra mentalis - Common - Regular sightings, including lekking birds along Semaphore Hill Road
143. Yellow-throated Vireo - Vireo flavifrons - Winterer - One, base of Semaphore Hill Road
144. Philadelphia Vireo - Vireo philadelphicus - Winterer - One, Summit Gardens
145. Golden-fronted Greenlet - Hylophilus aurantiifrons - Common - Sightings near Ammo Dump and Summit Ponds
146. Lesser Greenlet - Hylophilus decurtatus - Common - Regular sightings
147.
Green Shrike-Vireo - Vireolanius pulchellus - Common - The loud “Peer!
Peer! Peer!” (or “Look up hear!”) song sounds constantly from the
canopy, including from the foliage surrounding the observation deck -
We saw just one, from the car park platform at the base of the Tower.
148. Black-chested Jay - Cyanocorax affinis - Common - Two at the Summit Gardens, two at the Summit Ponds
149.
Gray-breasted Martin - Progne chalybea - Common - Regular sightings,
many on the canal-side transmission wires near the Ammo Dump Ponds
150. Mangrove Swallow - Tachycineta albilinea - Common - Regular sightings along the Canal
151. Northern Rough-winged Swallow - Stelgidopteryx serripennis - Winterer - Regular sightings at Ammo Dump Ponds
152.
Southern Rough-winged Swallow - Stelgidopteryx ruficollis - Common -
Regular sightings - With a prominent pale rump and orange wash on the
throat, this bird is conspicuously different than Northern Rough-winged
153. Black-bellied Wren - Thryothorus fasciatoventris - Common - Three, Pipeline Road
154.
Bay Wren - Thryothorus nigricapillus - Common - One seen at the
bridge/gate at the base of the Pipeline Road proper, one heard farther
down the road at another bridge
155. Buff-breasted Wren - Thryothorus leucotis - Common - Three, Summit Gardens at the deer enclosure
156. Plain Wren - Thryothorus modestus - Common - Two, Summit Ponds
157. House Wren - Troglodytes aedon - Common - One each at Summit Gardens and Gamboa Rainforest Resort
158. White-breasted Wood-Wren - Henicorhina leucosticta - Common - Heard daily, occasional sightings, forest
159.
Song Wren - Cyphorhinus phaeocephalus - Uncommon - Heard along Pipeline
Road, three seen at close quarters on the Plantation Road, a great
little wren, resembles an antbird and groups sings in syncopated harmony
160. Long-billed Gnatwren - Ramphocaenus melanurus - Common - Regularly heard from trail-side scrub
161. Tropical Gnatcatcher - Polioptila plumbea - Common - Regular sightings
162. Clay-colored Thrush - Turdus grayi - Common - Regular sightings, especially in semi-open habitat
163. Tropical Mockingbird - Mimus gilvus - Common - Regular sightings at Ammo Dump Ponds, Summit Ponds area
164. Golden-winged Warbler - Vermivora chrysoptera - Winterer - One, at lower end of Semaphore Hill Road
165. Tennessee Warbler - Vermivora peregrina - Winterer - One, Summit Gardens at the deer enclosure
166. Yellow Warbler - Dendroica petechia - Winterer - Regular sightings in scrubby habitat
167. Chestnut-sided Warbler - Dendroica pensylvanica - Winterer - Regular sightings in forested areas
168.
Bay-breasted Warbler - Dendroica castanea - Winterer - Regular
sightings in forested areas - There were quite a few around so
Euro-birders might want to get a particular fix on this pale-breasted,
wing-barred bird with traces of washed-out rufous on the flanks
169. Black-and-white Warbler - Mniotilta varia - Winterer - Regular sightings in forested areas
170.
Northern Waterthrush - Seiurus noveboracensis - Winterer - One at
Summit Gardens at the deer enclosure, one at Gamboa Rainforest Resort
171. Kentucky Warbler - Oporornis formosus - Winterer - One, a male at an ant swarm, Pipeline Road
172. Rosy Thrush-Tanager - Rhodinocichla rosea - Common - Two heard but not glimpsed in trail-side scrub at Summit Ponds
173.
Gray-headed Tanager - Eucometis penicillata - Common - Present at each
Pipeline Road ant swarm, be aware of resemblance to female
White-shouldered Tanager
174.
White-shouldered Tanager - Tachyphonus luctuosus - Common - Regular
sightings, the default tanager, often seen moving in small flocks at
forest edges - Note: the female resembles a small Gray-headed Tanager
175. Red-throated Ant-Tanager - Habia fuscicauda - Common - Regular sightings
176. Summer Tanager - Piranga rubra - Winterer - Two, Summit Gardens
177. Crimson-backed Tanager - Ramphocelus dimidiatus - Common - Regular sightings
178. Flame (Lemon)-rumped Tanager - Ramphocelus flammigerus - Common - Sightings amongst the gardens at the Gamboa Resort
179. Blue-gray Tanager - Thraupis episcopus - Abundant - Regular sightings, especially in garden/semi-open habitat
180. Palm Tanager - Thraupis palmarum - Abundant - Regular sightings, especially in garden/semi-open habitat
181.
Plain-colored Tanager - Tangara inornata - Common - Regular sightings,
the second default forest tanager after White-shouldered - A small
flighty bird travelling in groups - At the right angle the sun lights
up a nice blue shoulder patch
182. Golden-hooded Tanager - Tangara larvata - Common - Regular sightings, especially in open forest
183. Blue Dacnis - Dacnis cayana - Common - Regular sightings
184. Green Honeycreeper - Chlorophanes spiza - Common - One, Summit Gardens
185. Shining Honeycreeper - Cyanerpes lucidus - Uncommon - Two, Pipeline Road
186. Red-legged Honeycreeper - Cyanerpes cyaneus - Common - Regular sightings
187.
Variable Seedeater - Sporophila americana - Abundant - Regular
sightings in open, semi-open habitat, including large flocks (30-40
birds) at the back of the Gamboa Rainforest Resort
188. Yellow-bellied Seedeater - Sporophila nigricollis - Common - Two, both with the Variable Seedeaters at the Gamboa Resort
189. Ruddy-breasted Seedeater - Sporophila minuta - Uncommon - A pair perched on a telephone wire, Summit Ponds
190. Streaked Saltator - Saltator striatipectus - Common - One, Summit Ponds
191. Buff-throated Saltator - Saltator maximus - Common - Two, Summit Ponds and Summit Gardens
192.
Slate-colored Grosbeak - Saltator grossus - Uncommon - One, halfway
down Semaphore Hill Road - More impressive than the field guide
illustration
193.
Blue-black Grosbeak - Cyanocompsa cyanoides - Common - One sighting, a
pair along a brushier portion of the Plantation Road
194. Great-tailed Grackle - Quiscalus mexicanus - Abundant - Regular sightings
195. Shiny Cowbird - Molothrus bonariensis - Common - One, at the deer pen, Summit Gardens
196. Giant Cowbird - Molothrus oryzivorus - Common - Three, at the deer pen, Summit Gardens
197. Yellow-backed Oriole - Icterus chrysater - Common - Two at Summit Gardens, one at base of Pipeline Road
198. Yellow-tailed Oriole - Icterus mesomelas - Uncommon - One at Gamboa Rainforest Resort
199. Baltimore Oriole - Icterus galbula - Winterer - Three at Summit Gardens, one at Gamboa Rainforest Resort
200. Yellow-billed Cacique - Amblycercus holosericeus - Uncommon - Two at Summit Ponds
201. Scarlet-rumped Cacique - Cacicus uropygialis - Common - Regular sightings
202. Yellow-rumped Cacique - Cacicus cela - Common - Regular sightings
203. Chestnut-headed Oropendola - Psarocolius wagleri - Common - Regular sightings
204. Yellow-crowned Euphonia - Euphonia luteicapilla - Common - Several sightings
205. Thick-billed Euphonia - Euphonia laniirostris - Abundant - Several sightings
Annotated Mammal List - Panama - The Canopy Tower - January 13-17, 2009
1.
Common Opossum - Didelphis marsupialis - Three on the night drive, one
on Semaphore Hill Road on our early morning transfer out to the
international airport
2. Central American Woolly Opossum - Caluromys derbianus - One, on the night drive
3. Northern Tamandua - Tamandua mexicana - One, low by the roadside 200 metres from the Tower
4. Hoffmann’s Two-toed Sloth - Choloepus hoffmanni - Daily sightings
5. Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth - Bradypus variegatus - Daily sightings
6. Geoffroy’s Tamarin - Saguinus geoffroyi - One sighting, a group of three high by the roadside 100 metres from the Tower
7. White-faced Capuchin Monkey - Cebus capuchinus - Daily sightings
8. Mantled Howler Monkey - Alouatta palliata - Daily sightings, also functions as an alarm clock
9. Variegated Squirrel - Sciurus variegatoides - Daily sightings
10. Red-tailed Squirrel - Sciurus granatensis - Daily sightings
11. Central American Agouti - Dasyprocta punctata - Daily sightings, often darting across forest roads and paths
12. White-nosed Coati - Nasua nasua - Daily sightings
13. Kinkajou - Potos flavus - Five, in flowering Balsa trees, on the night drive
14. Olingo - Bassaricyon gabbii - One, in a flowering tree on the night drive
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Bird List 
