The Canopy Tower, Panama

You probably chose to come on the American Birding Association's trip for donors to Panama because you had heard of the 929 species of bird that you could see in the country, and because the Canopy Tower gives a magical focal point for birding in Panama. The extensive tracts of tropical rain forest result in large numbers of species, and the network of roads in these forest areas offer great opportunities for seeing birds.

The ABA has long admired the work of Raúl Arias de Para in developing ecotourism in his country, so the opportunity of putting this trip together for you to Raúl's tower was a "no-brainer". The trip was hosted by Dick Payne, Chair of the ABA Board of Directors, and Paul Green, Executive Director of the ABA. We thank Nanci Hawley for the groundwork that made this trip come together.

The members of our group, ten in all, came from many parts of the USA, and we were joined on site by Raúl Arias de Para and guides Carlos Bethancourt and José Soto. Whereas Dick Payne, Mary Lou Zimmer, Bob and Mary Kay Eiermann and Paul Green arrived on Saturday, the rest of us arrived during Sunday, and were collected and shuttled from airport to the tower. Helen Patton gave some cause for concern but, as expected, a tight connection had caused her to catch a later flight to Panama City's Tocumen International Airport.

The distinctive shape of the Canopy Tower is well known to all of us who had the opportunity to do some background reading. It is almost like a giant golf tee with a soccer ball on top. The bright aquamarine painted metal sides of the building appear only as we approach the top of Semaphore Hill, a site to drink in as we wait for the gate to be opened.

This remarkable ecolodge began as an unremarkable construction. The US Air Force built it in 1965 on the summit of Semaphore Hill, near the Continental Divide, to house radar used in the defense of the Panama Canal. Then from 1988 it was used to detect airplanes suspected of carrying drugs from South America, and in 1995, the tower was closed. The following year, the tower was passed to Panama in compliance with the Torrijos-Carter Treaties, together with 35 acres of forest within the Soberania National Park. The Government of Panama contracted with Divertimento Ecologico to transform the site into a center for observation of the neotropical rain forest, and photos in the upstairs lounge show the stages of development of the tower. Here you can see the cutting of windows in the walls and the construction of guest facilities. We have to admire the vision that Raúl had back in the 1990s, which we see realized today.

As we enter the building, we come to an atrium full of displays prepared by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute, and a reception desk, where we are greeted by Grace Acedo, who impressed us all by the efficient way that she keeps many of the functions running, including teaching other staff how to drive.

Looking up, we see a construction of steel tubes and silver-painted girders, with a red steel staircase that hugs the outer shell. Guide rooms with generous windows lining the wall of the mezzanine floor and, one floor above that, six two-person rooms house most of our group. As we continue to ascend we come to the top floor, a large open space, topped with a 30-foot high geotangent dome, which we used as our comfortable main meeting and dining area, with tables, cozy chairs, hammocks, a library, and periodical bird literature of all kinds, with huge panoramic windows looking onto the trees around.

Above the communal area, a narrow metal stairway leads to a viewing platform that surrounds the dome, and offers opportunities for viewing the forest, a place for us to gather each morning as the sun rises to see the many birds that use the nearby trees.

We found our rooms to be relatively Spartan in a positive sense. Clean, neat, and comfortable, and more than adequate for our requirements. We found the suggested rules for saving water the same as observed by those of us who live in areas of drought.

Sunday was the gathering day for most of us. Sunday morning began, for those of us already in the Canopy Tower, with coffee on the viewing deck at sunrise. This was a time for getting to know each other, for getting a true feel for this amazing structure, and to see our first birds.

As we scanned the misty treetops from our vantage point, some forest jewels were there for our viewing pleasure. A Blue Cotinga shone among the foliage, followed by a Green Shrike Vireo, while Scaled Pigeons gathered in distant treetops, as did groups of feeding Keel-billed Toucans. Up-close we came to know some of the more common birds, including Tropical Kingbirds, Plain-colored and Green Tanagers and a Green Honeyeater. We were able to see the brilliant blue lesser wing coverts revealed on the otherwise drab Plain-colored Tanager. Orange-chinned Parakeets, Mealy Amazons, and Red-lored Amazons flew by on this morning, as they did most mornings.

Breakfast of familiar fare was served at 7:00 am: freshly squeezed juice, cereals, forest fruits, eggs, local cheese, and corn, and was the first of our many enjoyable meals together. On the first morning, we met with Bob Cullen who was researching an article on Panama for the Smithsonian Magazine, which will include a section on birding and ecotourism. When the article appears we shall let you know.

This rather leisurely morning continued with a study of the hummingbirds on the feeders by the front door. Eight remarkable species were here: White-necked Jacobin, Long-tailed Hermit, Black-throated Mango, White-vented Plumeleteer, Purple-crowned Fairy, Blue-chested, Rufous-tailed and Violet-bellied Hummingbirds. Terry Moore arrived in time for a lunch consisting of meat loaf, a local starch, and vegetables.

The civilized life continued with a familiar part of our week, the almost-daily siesta. Then, pulling ourselves out of our dream world, we took a short drive on the open back of the Rainfomobile to the Summit Ponds. This gave us a taste of what was to come. In our brief time at the Summit Ponds, we were able to see Boat-billed Herons, Green and Ring-billed Kingfishers, and Greater Ani among others. Beyond the Summit Ponds, we could see the Old Gamboa Road that would be the scene of another adventure on Tuesday. Following two hours in the exhausting heat of the afternoon, we returned to the tower, in time for a shower and aperitifs. Raúl joined us for dinner.

In between sunset and sunrise each day, we were serenaded within our building by the repeated chichak calls of the pale yellow House Geckos (Hemidactylus frenatus) which provided great entertainment as they ran around the ceilings chasing and catching insects. These companion animals came into the continent from Southeast Asia. They were first reported in Costa Rica and have since spread into Panama.

We met on the platform at 6:00 am, for an hour or so of birding before breakfast, later gathering at the hummingbird feeders at 8:30 am. Following this barrage on our senses from the frenetic activity of so many species, we walked along the road from the summit of Semaphore Hill, down to the main road, a leisurely walk that began in the cool of the morning but soon became roasting. This was an introduction to some of the birds that we would see on a regular basis. We saw a group of migrating Broad-winged Hawks, a Fasciated Ant-Shrike, Dot-winged Antshrike, White-shouldered Tanager, Blue-crowned and Broad-billed Motmots and many others. As we got onto the vehicle to haul us back up the hill, we had our first look at the only corvid (crow) of our trip, the Black-chested Jay, which was constructing its nest near the bottom of Semaphore Hill Road.

Upon our return to the tower, we rested, lunched, and took a siesta before heading out to the Ammo Dump ponds with Carlos as our guide. This somewhat unconventional birding location is made up of two ponds on either side of the road by the entrance to the "explosive magazine". Highlights here included Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Gray Hawk, and Crimson-backed Tanager.

We returned for a dinner of beef, beans, rice, and vegetables, and then loaded up the Rainfomobile to go owling with Carlos. One sight this evening was a highlight of the trip, for although we found no owls, Carlos spotted a Great Potoo resting on a tree (this one of many great spots by Carlos, and by José, during our trip). After a minute or so of viewing this well-camouflaged bird on the branch, another bird came and hovered in the air, and in the beam of our lantern, and put on a display for us. Broad buffy wings, and a broad tail folded into the relatively small and compact form of a second perched Great Potoo. We were treated to one more hovering display before both birds flew on. We returned with the feeling of having seen something very special and unusual.

Day Three. Tuesday 25 March 2003. The Pipeline Road.

This was the first of our early morning departures. Rising at 4:30 am for a 5:00 am express breakfast, then on the road by 5:30 am in a small air-conditioned bus with our two guides, Carlos and Jose. The famous Pipeline Road was built alongside a World War II double oil pipeline that crossed the country but was never used. Incidentally, at the beginning of this road, which passes through the Soberanía National Park, Raúl is hoping to build a tropical rain forest education center. This could be used by those passing along the Panama Canal and who care to disembark.

Here we have the opportunity of both mid-forest and forest-edge birding, as well as riparian birding in this secondary forest habitat. Notable on this trip was a Barred Forest-Falcon, which a few of us glimpsed as it walked the obscured limbs of nearby trees. However, we all got to see the high-speed flybys as the bird flew around us, giving Jim Nelson tantalizing glimpses. We gained our only glimpse of flying King Vulture, and a brief view of Blue Ground Dove. We saw four trogons -- White-tailed, Violaceous, Black-tailed and Slaty-tailed -- all three Motmots (Blue-crowned, Rufous, and Broad-billed), Black-striped Woodcreeper, and White-breasted Wood-Wren. Full details of all birds are, of course, included in the checklist that we have included with this newsletter. We thank Terry Moore for his work in putting together this checklist.
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We returned for lunch of chicken, a siesta, and then a 3:30 pm departure to Old Gamboa Road, walking along the road to end up at Summit Ponds. The beginning of this walk along the Gamboa Road was about the most productive of our stops during our entire stay. A small area of water and vegetation of various heights held our attention for 45 minutes. The birds at this one spot included Crimson-backed, Golden-hooded, Blue-gray, and Palm Tanagers, and Yellow-backed and Baltimore Orioles.

Walking the road we saw among others Golden-collared and Red-capped Manakins, Little Hermit, and our first view of Squirrel Cuckoo. The highlight was undoubtedly the roosting Spectacled Owl, a remarkable finding. We had another chance to view the Boat-billed Heron and Greater Ani at the Summit Ponds.

We returned for dinner of fish, sweet potato, coconut rice, and broccoli, to collapse into a deep and long sleep.