Cindy and I recently returned from a very enjoyable trip to Panama. We spent the entire trip in central Panama, mostly within the former Canal Zone. We stayed at the Canopy Tower for this trip and were very happy with the decision (for more information see Canopy Tower's home page). The facilities are first rate as was the staff, I would highly recommend this lodge to anyone. The Canopy Tower is located with Soberania National Park and is surrounded by quality forest. The birding along the road down Semaphore Hill and on the Plantation Trail was nothing short of fantastic. We also visited the Ammo Dump Ponds in Gamboa, Pipeline Road, Summit Ponds and the old Gamboa Road that are within a few minutes drive. Our longest excursion was to Achiote Road on the Caribbean slope. The staff of the Canopy Tower included two guides, Carlos and Jose. These two young men are from Panama City and are well on their way to learning the ecology of these forests. They both know birds fairly well and are a pleasure to be around.
23 March
We traveled from Austin to Panama City. Because of delays on almost every leg of our journey we arrive in Panama City well late of our expected time and arrived at the Canopy Tower close to midnight.
24 March
We began this morning on the deck (roof) of the Canopy Tower. This is a real advantage of this lodge. The birding from this vantage point is fantastic. The star of the show most morning is the male Blue Cotinga, which did not disappoint us this day. Green Shrike-Vireos called from the canopy, but proved very difficult to see. We remained on the deck from 6:00 - 8:00 AM before heading down the road. The other highlight of the early morning were Scaled Pigeon, Red-lored and Mealy Parrots, Keel-billed Toucan, Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher, various species of migrating warblers, Blue Dacnis, Green Honeycreeper, and numerous Scarlet Tanagers.
During our stay we birded the road down Semaphore Hill three times, and I would have liked to have had the opportunity to spend more time there. We spent the remainder of the morning along this road. Highlights included an adult Black Hawk-Eagle, Broad-billed Motmot, Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Olivaceous Flatbill, Green Shrike-Vireo, Fulvous-vented Euphonia, Scarlet-rumped Cacique and Chestnut-headed Oropendola. The best part of birding this road (and Plantation Trail) was the antbirds! Every trip down it included many flocks that contained antbirds. The most common species were Dot-winged and Checker-throated Antwrens. Other antbirds that were frequently encountered included Fasciated Antshrike, Western Slaty-Antshrike, White-flanked Antwren, Dusky Antbird, and Chestnut-backed Antbird. Birds weren't the only things were encountered on our walk. Were also saw three species of monkey: Mantled Howler, White-faced Capuchin, and Geoffroy's Tamarin.
There are several hummingbird feeders around the Tower. Violet-bellied Hummingbird was the most common species at the feeders during our stay. White-necked Jacobin was the second most common visitor. Blue-chested and Snowy-bellied Hummingbirds were regular visitors as well and we would occasionally see a Scaly-breasted Hummingbird or a Long-tailed Hermit.
In the afternoon were birded Semaphore Hill again and walked a short distance up Plantation Trail which starts at the bottom of the hill. Many of the same species seen in the morning were encountered, but were also saw Little Hermit, White-vented Plumeleteer, Slaty-tailed Trogon, Great Jacamar, Blue-crowned and Red-capped Manakins, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Gray-headed Tanager and Slate-colored Grosbeak. The highlight of the afternoon was a group of four Ocellated Antbirds. They were moving up the hill and although they did hang around long, we were able to get great looks at this spectacular bird.
25 March
This morning were only spent about 30 minutes on the deck of the Canopy Tower before heading down Semaphore Hill and up the Plantation Trail. Virtually the first bird was a beautiful male Spotted Antbird, a bird I have looked for without success at other locations other tropics. We found a number of species that we had not seen the previous day. These included a Sunbittern along Plantation Trail, Rufous Motmot, White-whiskered Puffbird, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Plain Xenops, Southern Bentbill, Royal Flycatcher, and Black-chested Jay.
During the early afternoon I sat on the deck of the Canopy Tower and added Piratic Flycatcher and Bay-headed Tanager to our growing trip list. At about 3:00 we headed up the Plantation Trail. The bird was as good as it had been in the morning and we added a few species to the day list including Golden-crowned Spadebill, Golden-collared Manakin and Slate-colored Grosbeak.
26 March
We were headed toward the Pipeline Road this morning. The fist stop was at the Ammo Dump Ponds at Gamboa. The avian activity was impressive and we quickly had an impressive list of species. Perhaps the most interesting sighting was an immature Rufescent Tiger-Heron. Although it was standing in the open it was amazingly camouflaged. Other bird found around the ponds included Striated Heron, Muscovy Duck, White-throated Crake, Wattled Jacana, Panama Flycatcher, Crimson-backed Tanager, and Streaked Saltator.
Pipeline Road was not as active as we would have liked, but it was still a wonderful birding experience. The highlight of the day was not a bird. An adult female (?) Ocelot and her half-grown cub crossed the road right in front of the car! We were able to find a small army ant swarm. With it were the expected Bicolored Antbirds along with a Spotted Antbird, Plain-brown and Northern Barred Woodcreepers, and three Song Wrens. Other noteworthy species seen along Pipeline Road included great looks at a Little Tinamou, a male Black-tailed Trogon, White-bellied Antbird, several Spotted Antbirds and Golden-collared Manakins, Black-bellied and Bay Wrens, and a pair of Blue-black Grosbeaks.
In the late afternoon we visited Summit Ponds and the south Old Gamboa Road. We spotted a Capped Heron, Boat-billed Heron and two Greater Anis and the ponds before heading down the road. The road passes through more disturbed forest with some heavily disturbed areas. Along here we found Red-crowned Woodpecker, Fasciated Antshrike, White-bellied and Jet Antbirds, , Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Crimson-backed Tanager and Streaked Saltator.
27 March
We had a very early start for our day trip to Achiote Road. Birding here was mostly in disturbed areas with very little access to good forest except along the roadside. The highlight of the day was seeing two Spectacles Owls on a day roost thanks to José. We also saw Pied and Black-breasted Puffbirds much to my delight. The birding was generally excellent with many species that we had not encountered on the Pacific Slope and many that we had. Some of the species were saw were Blue-headed Parrot, Rufous-breasted Hermit, Black-throated Mango, White-tailed Trogon, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, Long-tailed Tyrant, Blue Cotinga, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Black-chested Jay, Sulphur-rumped Tanager and Crested Oropendola.
We stopped by Summit Ponds on our way back to the Canopy Tower where we learned that Carlos has spotted a roosting Great Potoo near the bottom of Semaphore Hill. We birded around the ponds for about a hour adding Buff-breasted Wren before heading for the Tower. Seeing the Great Potoo was definitely a highlight of a trip that was full of them. As we watched it, it began to preen and stretch was the sun was going down. After supper we watch two Kinkajou come down to get bananas that the staff leaves out for them. What a day.
28 March
We had a early flight and so left the Canopy Tower just as the morning bird was about to start. When we arrived at the airport we learned that our flight had been canceled and we would not be leaving until later in the morning. Too bad we didn't know that before we left the Canopy Tower! I guess you learn something everyday.
Click here if you would like to read the annotated list of the birds which were observed.
