Panamá & Darién March/April 2000 by Paul Coopmans previous   :   next

After our successful 1998 Panama & Darien tour and our magical encounter with the Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo, I knew equaling our first trip was going to be very tough. No matter how difficult the brochure says it is to find this most elusive dweller of unbroken stretches of rainforest, I knew right off the bat that this was the main target for most of the people I met in Panama City airport as they arrived from their various points of origin. So, the pressure was on.      But our trip started in central Panama, and for the first time we went straight to the new Canopy Tower Lodge near Gamboa, where we all had a comfortable night after a tiring flight. Waking up the following morning we took to the building's roof at first light, soon to be immersed in a wonderful dawn chorus, with stately tunes, wonderful hymns and raucous calls filling the air. If one has to pick THE avian feature of the Canopy Tower it is doubtless the dazzling Blue Cotinga, and indeed it did not take long before this feathered jewel showed off in all its glory. Green Shrike-Vireos, in places like Costa Rica often hard to see high in the canopy, granted superb eye-level views, whilst a flowering tree crown attracted a glittering male Violet-bellied Hummingbird. Fruiting trees were targeted by Northern Violaceous and Slaty-tailed Trogons, Masked Tityra, Plain-coloured and Golden-hooded Tanagers, Blue Dacnis and Green and Red-legged Honeycreepers, and a singing Brown-capped Tyrannulet was pulled in to minimal focusing range. As the sun climbed higher, a variety of raptors took to the air, and within a short interval we saw soaring King Vulture, Osprey, Double-toothed Kite and Black Hawk-Eagle, as well as our first migrating flocks of Swainson's and Broad-winged Hawks. A walk along the lodge's entrance road brought us eye-to-eye with our first antbirds. A pair of Fasciated Antshrikes were mobbed by a horde of White-shouldered Tanagers. Western Slaty Antshrikes and Dot-winged Antwrens skulked in vine tangles, but it was a small antswarm, accompanied by our first Bicoloured and Ocellated Antbirds, that stole the show. We also admired clumsy Grey-headed Chachalacas clambering through the canopy, and a Red-throated Ant-Tanager with a recently caught nestling (the latter remained unidentified!). After lunch, we made our first visit to the famous Pipeline Road, where a noisy lek of Golden-collared Manakins was the most memorable feature. A nearby pond produced a stately Rufescent Tiger-Heron and an extremely responsive pair of White-throated Crakes.      The next day we were up early for the long drive to Nusagandí, a splendid reserve managed by the Kuna Indians. Located on the Continental Divide, a couple of hours east of the capital, it is covered in wet foothill forest which is home to two highly sought-after specialities. The first one of these, the primitive Speckled Antshrike, was soon found, but it took some time sorting through a large mixed flock before we saw the other one, the equally enigmatic Broad-billed Sapayoa, which according to some represents a separate, monotypic family. Other goodies in the area included Violet-crowned Woodnymph, a glorious male Yellow-eared Toucanet, a busy pair of Stripe-cheeked Woodpeckers, Western Woodhaunter, Slaty-winged Foliage-gleaner, an excited Scaly-throated Leaftosser, Spot-crowned Antvireo, a tiny Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant, wound-up Bay Wrens, and a garrulous pair of Song Wrens. A side trip to the Bayano lake on the way back produced a responsive male Black Antshrike, a species restricted to eastern Panama and northern Colombia.      Cerro Jefe and Cerro Azul are twin peaks whose lofty heights provide a refreshing change from the humid lowlands of the Canal Area. We started out in the gnarled elfin forest near the top, where we first played hide-and-seek with a pair of Black-eared Wood-Quail, before finding one of our main targets, the near-endemic Tacarcuna Bush-Tanager. Also present were Tawny-capped Euphonia and the gaudy Black-and-yellow Tanager, but, with no sign of any Violet-capped Hummingbirds, we decided to retreat to lower elevations. Walking a track through much taller forest my pygmy-owl imitations soon brought in a flurry of activity, and among the wide variety of upset birds we found a diminutive Rufous-crested Coquette, Snowy-bellied Hummingbird, a splendid pair of Spot-crowned Barbets, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Shining Honeycreeper and Fulvous-bellied and White-vented Euphonias, as well as Speckled, Bay-headed, Rufous-winged and Sulphur-rumped Tanagers.      On our last morning out of the Canopy Tower we walked down the track in the dark in the hope of finding one or more owls. Alas we only heard a Mottled Owl, but this was compensated for by a magnificent calling Slaty-backed Forest-Falcon which came right into the tape. Next we visited the old Gamboa road, where the most noteworthy birds included Boat-billed Heron, striking Lance-tailed Manakins, a noisy Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant and an unobtrusive Panama Flycatcher. Best of all however was a Tiny Hawk being mobbed by scores of hummingbirds, including a female of the near-endemic Sapphire-throated Hummingbird. The highlight of another trip to the Pipeline Road was an obliging Streak-chested Antpitta, singing its soul out from the forest floor.      After a stop at Miraflores locks to watch the impressive large ships passing through the Panama Canal, we took an afternoon flight to David in western Panama. Upon arrival our scrutiny of some scrubby and wooded areas near the airport paid off with an endemic Veraguas Mango, as well as the colourful Cherrie's Tanager. The following morning we drove up remote Cerro Colorado, home to the endemic Yellow-green Finch. Upon arrival, it didn't take us long to find our prime target, in addition to a host of other birds only found in the higher mountains of Costa Rica and western Panama, such as White-tailed Emerald, Purple-throated Mountain-gem, Prong-billed Barbet, Ruddy Treerunner, Silvery-fronted Tapaculo, Black-faced Solitaire, Black-and-yellow Silky-Flycatcher, Collared Redstart, Black-cheeked Warbler, Spangle-cheeked Tanager and Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager.      The continental divide along the Fortuna Road was our next destination, and during a couple of visits we clocked up a nice set of birds in this scenic area. Top-of-the-bill here were Three-wattled Bellbirds emitting their unearthly calls from various directions, though it took us until just before leaving to spot a male in a distant tree crown, allowing for excellent scope views. Mixed flocks passing through the canopy contained the gaudy Red-headed Barbet, striking Blue-and-gold Tanagers and colourful Yellow-browed Chlorophonias, and other specialities we saw here included a pre-dawn pair of Bare-shanked Screech-Owls, White-bellied Mountain-gem, Golden-bellied Flycatcher and Black-thighed Grosbeak. Descending down the Caribbean slope, we explored part of the brand new road leading from Chiriqui Grande to Changuinola, further boosting our growing trip list. Memorable birds here in the Bocas del Toro lowlands included Northern Jacana, Pale-billed Woodpecker, Brown and Black-chested Jays, Olive-crowned Yellowthroat and ubiquitous Passerini's Tanagers. Interesting raptors included Grey-headed Kite and a magnificent pair of White Hawks, as well as thousands of migrating Turkey Vultures.      After flying back to the country's capital for the night we once again found ourselves at Albrook airport the next morning, this time for our flight into Central America's last frontier, the extensive Darien National Park near the Colombian border. After a spectacular flight, first overflying the idyllic Pearl Islands and next the immense Tuira river delta (this being the only area in Central America where I have ever had the impression of flying over the Amazon basin), the looming outline of the Pirre range grew closer, and, after overflying miles and miles of awesome forested slopes, we made a sudden descent and a spectacular landing at Cana airstrip, a tiny 'dot' amidst this vast wilderness.      The birding in the vicinity of the Cana lodge and airstrip is a very rewarding experience in itself. From the porch we scoped up a superb Black-tipped Cotinga, four species of majestic macaws (including the superb Great Green) regularly floated by uttering their raucous calls, and, in the tree tops right behind the lodge, a Chocó Toucan, unknown from Panama until a few months prior to our visit, regularly gave its 'croaks' in duet with a nearby Keel-billed Toucan. Dense thickets lining the airstrip held noisy Jet Antbirds, attractive Pacific Streaked Antwrens, eloquent Black-bellied Wrens and secretive Yellow-billed Caciques. A Red-billed Scythebill clambered up the trunk of one of the forest edge trees, and Red-throated Caracaras betrayed their presence by their loud screams that have to be heard to be believed. Chestnut-mandibled Toucans and Collared Aracaris provided a riot of colours, and a chunky pair of Barred Puffbirds posed well for the scopes. On our second afternoon one of THE birds of the trip appeared right near the lodge, an impressive Crested Eagle, first allowing for great perched views in the scope, and next taking to the air, amazing us with its majestic soaring flight.      A lot of our time in Cana was spent along the fine network of trails. The Boca de Cupe trail, leading through partly secondary forest with many light-filled gaps, produced such specialities as Great Tinamou, a dazzling close-up Great Jacamar, the smaller Dusky-backed Jacamar, a stunning pair of Crimson-bellied Woodpecker foraging together with a couple of Crimson-crested Woodpeckers, the plaintive Speckled Mourner, the odd Southern Bentbill, the striking Bare-crowned Antbird, and many others. Both understorey and canopy mixed flocks were regularly encountered, and sorting through these was a sometimes frustrating but often rewarding experience!      After our first taste of Cana's lowland birding we started our trek up the slopes of Cerro Pirre to look for the exciting birds only found at higher elevations. Worthwhile birds en route were our first Crested Guans, a Central American Pygmy-Owl being mobbed by hordes of hummers and other small birds, a Black-breasted Puffbird singing high in the canopy, and an extremely responsive Long-tailed Woodcreeper granting us great views. Higher up we found an obliging but strange Wing-banded Antbird, the localized Sharpbill announcing himself with his eerie, almost martian-like, descending cries, and a Tody Motmot which proved elusive at first, but eventually was seen well by all.      Heading up towards the mountain's summit very early the next morning, a Mottled Owl once again failed to cooperate, but our enthusiasm was regained soon after the start of dawn chorus. The ethereal tunes of Varied Solitaires filled the air, and it didn't take long before one of these subtly beautiful thrushes came in to investigate the origin of the sound coming out of my tape recorder. More Darien endemics were to follow. Both Pirre Bush-Tanagers and Green-naped Tanagers showed in a canopy flock, while some high-pitched squeaks in the understorey revealed the presence of our first Pirre Warblers. Understorey flowers were prominent, attracting loads of Greenish Pufflegs and also allowing for good views of the awkward Tooth-billed Hummingbird. A group of Brown-headed Spider Monkeys did not like our presence, and they started angrily shaking branches and throwing sticks at us! Eventually the infrequently encountered Beautiful Treerunner also surrendered, and hungrily we walked back into camp for lunch, where a Rufous-cheeked Hummingbird visited the flowering Cephalis bushes. Below camp we played hide-and-seek with a calling Rufous-breasted Antthrush, but our efforts were eventually rewarded with great views of this terrestrial forest denizen.      The next morning we went up above the camp again, finally finding a cooperative Sooty-headed Wren. After packing up we started our descent back down to Cana, where we had another two days to seek out the missing lowland forest birds. A Violaceous Quail-Dove was only seen by a lucky few, but it was a little further down the slope that it happened! A relatively narrow antswarm crossing the trail made me play my Bicoloured Antbird tape, and indeed, far off in the distance on the left, I heard excited growls of this species in response to the tape. I decided to go and explore. Clambering over multiple fallen logs, I descended the steep slope, and, having arrived closer to the antbird's shrieks, I called the others over. Another pair of Tody Motmots seemed to take advantage of the raiding columns of army ants, but it looked like the head of the swarm was still some hundred feet ahead of us, and we'd have to cross another steep slope scattered with piles of fallen logs, right adjacent to a tree-fall gap filled with light-thirsty and impenetrable thickets. One of us gave up, but with the others we carried on forward. Next to show was a splendid male Dull-mantled Antbird, and gently we edged forward to the area from where I could now here the song of an Ocellated Antbird. Undoubtedly the head of the swarm had to be there, and now we were on all fours, heading further down one by one to reduce the noise levels. Eventually we got to a spot where we could see the Ocellated Antbirds snapping up insect prey trying to flee from the ants' carnage, and a pair of Immaculate Antbirds gave us some fleeting glimpses. It was Hugo who first spotted it, a huge moving tail near the bottom of a buttressed tree. Soon the head appeared, and there it was indeed, the mother of all forest birds, the legendary Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo. One by one we took turns in approaching the bird, eventually all standing eyeball-to-eyeball with it. The impressive ground-cuckoo standing among the scuffling ants like a miniature T-rex, occasionally dashing out for some hapless large insect. The Immaculate Antbirds now gave better views, and after this once-in-a-lifetime experience we started clambering up hill again, only knowing the trail was somewhere above us. But it wasn't over yet. At least two hours after we had started our quest, we found Carl standing on the trail, obviously disappointed he had not followed us down, and we decided to go for it and clamber back down towards the head of the antswarm, while the others would start continuing their descent towards Cana. Well, it took us exactly half an hour (round trip) to go back to the spot, get dazzling views of the ground-cuckoo still standing there, and crawl back up to the trail!      With two days left and the ground-cuckoo under the belt, we were in a comfortable position, and spent most of our birding time along the river trail. Here, the most memorable birds included a smart Semiplumbeous Hawk, a close-up female Great Curassow (some of us also saw the male), a stolid Grey-cheeked Nunlet, a striking Black-crowned Antpitta, a singing Black-billed Flycatcher (a life bird for me at last!), and an obliging Southern Nightingale Wren. A pre-dawn walk along the Boca de Cupe trail not only produced both Common and Great Potoos, but also a most impressive Mottled Owl which was finally coaxed into view.      After flying back into Panama City our first hot shower in a week was well-appreciated, and an afternoon trip to Panama Bay made for some rewarding shorebirding, and particularly enjoyable were our views of Marbled Godwit, Surfbirds and Red Knots. The last morning of the tour was spent at Metropolitan Park, a stone's throw from our hotel. We were off to a good start with a pre-dawn Tropical Screech-Owl. At first light a Pheasant Cuckoo started calling, and in spite of some initial frustration we all eventually obtained reasonable views of this brood parasite. A male Rose-breasted Thrush-Tanager showed well, and so did a pair of White-bellied Antbirds, as well as our last target, the endemic Yellow-green Tyrannulet.      Once again our Panama & Darien tour was a bewildering success, not only being our most species-rich trip in Central America, but also being a tour offering the chance to see some of the hemisphere's most exciting and rarely encountered birds. -- Paul Coopmans

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